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The good broth of the Boucher son

« Doum, pour le bouillon, là…»»
Pour tout ce qui touche la bouffe, d’aussi loin que je me souvienne, j’ai toujours appelé Doum.He's a butcher's son.He fell into food when he was very small.

Publié le 27 déc. 2021

Chicken, fish, sauce, cooking, selection of vegetables, where to find an exotic spice: calls Doum.

At one time, he covered Formula 1.I called him, I heard Vroum-Vroum in watermark.

"I forgot the chicken on the counter, after the grocery store.

- How long ?

- I don't know, three hours, half past three.

- Throw it.

Vrouuuuum, vrouuuuum.

- OK.Where are you ?

- Kuala Lumpur, bye.»»

Vroummm, vrouuuuuum.

Doum cooks like others make war.One day, he took control of an oyster party at home.He cooked oysters with cheeses and breadcrumbs.Afterwards, there was a garnish to the ceiling, but they were the best oysters ever ingested by each guest.

Another time, in Mexico, he did chocolate chicken, a local specialty if I remember correctly.There was chocolate everywhere, even in the curtains, but on the plate, it was a triumphant supper.

"I never manage to grasp the steak like people on the cook.

- Don't you have a BBQ?

- It doesn't work.

Vrouuuum, vrouuuum.

- OK, mets le poêlon vide à broil pendant 15 minutes dans le four.

- In Broil?

- In Broil, he will be boiling after, ".

- And ?

- And then you seize your steak on the fire.

Vrouuuuum, vrouuuuum.

—Where are you ?

-In Spa-Francorchamps.

- Where is it ?

- In Belgium.»»

I always say that food is like the reno.You need the tools, and someone has to show you the basic stuff.Afterwards, you build on it. Ma mère m’a initié à la cuisine, enfant, à faire des choses de base – un steak, des pâtes, du brocoli à la marguerite – quand je me gardais seul pendant qu’elle travaillait à l’hôpital sur le « 4 à minuit»», le quart de soir.

And when I met Doum, 30 years ago, at university, he made me move on to the next levels ...

My mother, moreover, called her her youngest.

Then, he and me, we scrambled a little, by my very big fault of course, because I could be a hell of a knot of the knot sometimes.All that to say that it took a few years before the mayonnaise resumed between the son of the butcher and me, when I finally saw the light and made a mea-culpa.

Le bon bouillon du fils du boucher

J’ai donc appelé Doum, récemment : « Pour le bouillon, là…»»

I take a worse chicken broth, I don't say that to boast.I am the type to be kept in the carcasses and chicken bone freezer, as well as carrots and celery, to make it broth when considered appropriate.I even bought a huge pot with integrated colander to make broth more easily.Hop!Balance everything in the freezer, launches salt, worse lets reduce ...

Yum.

But something told me that Doum probably had some secret recipe to propel my chicken broth to the upper level, perhaps even legendary.Doum does everything better than me (in the kitchen, anyway).So I called the Boucher's son to see if I couldn't pimp my broth with one of his advice.

"Are you at home?

–Yes.

- I'm coming.»»

And Doum arrived in my kitchen, he had an hour and a half to kill before going to get his third dose.He first sprinkled my carcasses with chicken, salt and arompes before swinging them in the oven, with a half-boulb of fennel: "You have to roast the chicken before boiling it.»»

And while the chicken was tanned at 400, the butcher's son put butter in a pan before depositing the carrots, celery and onions.And some garlic cloves.

Me, I opened a bottle of wine by admiring it as you admire a craftsman in his element.

Then I took out a wooden spoon.

"Ok, I'm going to be braid ...

— Non ! Touche à rien ! Faut que ça colle !»»

We let the vegetables cook, even the frozen vegetables, we let them stick a little at the bottom of the pan before taking them off and let them stick a little more, it had to brown ...

"Worse, we will deglaze with water ...

- Why ?

– C’est ça qui va aller chercher les sucs…»»

We did the same with the dripping lick containing the chicken, we deglaced in the water and we swung the liquid in the boiled pot, with the vegetables and the chicken ...

Score races, after a few hours: I did the best chicken broth in my life, thanks to Doum.

Lesson of life of a quasi-ququiné, at the dawn of 2022: keep your chicken carcasses, make soup with your own broth and cultivate your old friendships;It's like chicken carcasses, don't waste them.

The broth recipe from my friend Dominic Fugère

So, Friday, I suggested that you keep your turkey carcasses, carrots, celery, fennel and spices, for this chronicle.

Here is the recipe.Adapt the quantities to the size of your pot.

In your largest saucepan: a quarter of butter and olive oil.Add two large onions, 2-3 carrots, 2-3 branches of celery with the leaves if possible, 2-3 garlic cloves.

Chop everything roughly.

Cook over high heat, while everything colors.

Let stick a little, then deglaze with half a cup of water.Let the water evaporate, then let the vegetables stick again in the bottom of your pan.You can repeat the coloring-switching cycle two or three times.

In a drinking, sprinkle bones and chicken oil carcass, salt, pepper.Add herbs.And put the fennel half-boiled under the chicken.Bake 30-45 minutes at 400 ° F, while it becomes brown chocolate in places.

Deglaze the water lick with water and place everything - fennel, carcass and chicken bone and the liquid to deglaze - in the pan containing the vegetables.Add the water.

Salt and pepper, to taste (all tastes are in nature).

Boil, then after 5 minutes, lower on medium heat to get a small quivering.

Simmer three hours, add water if necessary, do not let it reduce too much.

Go everything to the colander.

It freezes easily.

It will give good broth for your soups.